![]() Naturally, an update to the design is needed to account for the height difference between the two hotends.Īs the fans were moved to a higher position in this revision, the mounting arms for the front fans were redesigned to allow the individual arms to be printed flat and independently from the center mounting piece. To remedy this, I decided to switch back to the regular E3Dv6 hotend that has a smaller melt zone. Access to the nozzle is also significantly easier as there is nothing in the vicinity of the hotend except for the PINDA probe.Īfter a few hundred hours of experience with the previous revision, I found that the volcano hotend exhibited too much oozing when printing soft (eg. The resulting setup actually works extremely well, with the printer being quieter overall due to the lower fan speeds required to achieve the same amount of airflow. ![]() Firmware changes are required to support the smaller print volume: Z_MAX_POS is reduced from 204 to 184 and X_MAX_POS is reduced from 255 to 247.Without a silicone sock, hotend temperature can also drop by up to 14✬ when the fan turns on. Fan speeds needs to be reduced as even a 50W heater cartridge can only reach a maximum of 247✬ at 100% fan speed.Three identical radial fans are required for even cooling from all directions.I ended up having to modify the top Z-axis rod mounts to stop the travel before the carriage collides with the frame, which resulted in another 14mm reduction of the printable Z volume. I tried a few different variation for mounting the rear fan, but couldn’t come up with a way that was both structurally sound and didn’t interfere with the frame. The rear fan mount collides with the stock frame at the top when calibrating the Z axis.The stringing isn’t nearly as much of a problem since it can be reduced by slightly increasing the retraction distance and using dry filament. As far as drawbacks go, this has the effect of slightly reducing the maximum printable Z volume as well as slightly increasing filament stringing. The stock E3Dv6 hotend doesn’t have enough clearance on the bottom for good airflow, so I had to replace it with a Volcano hotend instead.Instead of building on the concept of redirecting air via a shroud, I decided to take a entirely different approach: rather than feed air into a shroud from the front, would it be possible to point the radial fans directly at the hotend from all directions? It turns out that this is possible, but requires quite a few changes: This is an inherent problem with having parts close to the hotend that can reach upwards of 300✬ This eventually caused the shroud plastic to soften and lower the ducts, which then introduced a risk of collision with the print. While the previous revision worked, the metal ducts had a tendency to conduct heat to the shroud over time. This prompted me to try my hand at designing a better cooling shroud that evenly cools from all sides. Installing the Bear X Extruder with the Bondtech X Carriage for the better belt tensioning mechanism.Īfter replacing the above components, I still encountered issues with uneven cooling on bridges and overhangs.Replaced the hotend unit with TriangleLab’s Dragon hotend.Replacing the hotend components with a 50W heater, PT100 w/ amplifier, titanium heat break, and copper block to support high temperature filaments.Replacing the extruder head with a Bondtech Upgrade Kit for more consistent prints.The small list of modifications that I have made to this printer so far include: I will however, say that this printer has vastly exceeded my expectations for the price. There are plenty of reviews online for this model so I won’t be providing my own review here. Update – Added notes on cooling performance and upgradesĮarlier this year I bought and assembled my own Prusa i3 mk3s as a quick way to iterate on various mechanical projects in the comfort of my apartment. Design files for this project can be found here (firmware) and here (3D models)
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